Winter Care for Horses

March 18th, 2012

Cold weather presents horses with some specific nutritional and management demands. As winter approaches it is a good idea to evaluate horses, housing and feeding programs to insure that horses get through the cold weather in good shape.

All warm-blooded animals have a critical temperature. This is the temperature below which the animal must produce additional heat to maintain normal body temperature. Mature horses in good flesh have a critical temperature around 30° F during early winter. After developing a winter coat and gaining 100 pounds, the critical temperature drops to 15° F. It is estimated that young horses, horses in thinner condition and those that have not developed a winter coat, may have a critical temperature around 40° F. When wet, windy conditions are present, the critical temperatures will be higher as well. In order to produce extra body heat, an increase in feed energy is required. Horses will require an estimated 15 – 20% more calories for each 10° F the ambient temperature falls below critical temperature. However, thin horses or horses with short hair may need even greater increases in dietary intake to maintain normal body temperature.

It is important that horses come into winter carrying enough body condition. The additional body fat serves as insulation and energy reserves in times when the thermometer dips below the critical temperature. Once cold weather sets in, it is difficult to put weight on horses. Thin horses get colder and use so much energy trying to stay warm, there often aren’t enough calories left for weight gain. Young horses and broodmares in late gestation, may not be able to consume enough of a high fiber diet, such as hay, due to restrictions in digestive system capacity. These horses must have access to good quality, highly digestible feeds in order to meet the additional energy requirements due to cold weather and higher production levels.

Historically, horsemen have often changed their rations from summer to winter to accommodate increased calorie needs. Typically, this is done by increasing the amount of hay and changing from oats to corn or a sweet feed. Feeding additional hay provides extra calories and also helps maintain body temperature due to the internal heat produced during digestion of fiber. The change from oats to corn or a sweet feed is based on the impression that corn or sweet feed is a “hotter” feed than oats. This concept of oats being a summer feed and corn a winter ration has some merit, but also has some flaws.

Nutritionally, oats and corn compare as follows:
Fiber,%    Protein,%
Oats    10.7    11.8    1200
Corn    2.2    9.0    1500

One pound of corn has more energy and is lower in protein and fiber than one pound of oats. Not only does corn have more energy per pound than oats, corn also weighs more per unit of volume. One scoop full of corn has about 45% more calories than the same scoop full of whole oats. This has led to the idea that corn is a “hotter” feed than oats. Actually, because of the higher fiber level in oats, oats produce more internal heat during digestion than corn, it just takes more oats to provide enough calories.

Corn or oats alone can provide adequate calories but not adequate protein, vitamin or minerals. The best option for the horse year-round is a nutritionally balanced diet of good quality hay and a high-quality, well fortified commercial feed. During the winter months, provide as much shelter as possible, especially from wind and wet weather, and Calories/lb increase feed intake to help maintain body condition. Then as warmer weather arrives, continue to feed the nutritionally balanced diet, simply reduce the amount fed. When a well balanced feed is used, the only adjustments necessary are to increase or decrease the amount fed, depending on body condition or energy demand.

Monitoring water intake is another very important consideration during winter weather. Mature horses in temperate climates will normally drink from 5 – 8 gallons of water per day. Increasing the amount of hay in the diet will increase the water consumption, up to 9 or 10 gallons of water with an all-hay diet. During cold weather, water intake can decline dramatically. Increased hay intake combined with decreased water intake contributes to the risk of impaction colic. This is especially a problem when horses are kept in stalls for several days due to inclement weather because confinement tends to slow intestinal motility. In cold weather, water should be kept fresh and free of ice to insure adequate intake and horses exercised whenever possible. Also, adding one or two ounces of salt to the feed may stimulate water consumption.

By Karen E. Davison, Ph.D., Managing Equine Nutritionist, Purina Mills, LLC

Winterize Your Horse

March 18th, 2012

Now that winter is approaching and the temperature is dropping, horse owners need to consider how to winterize their horses. During the cold season, horse owners must make sure that their animals receive proper feed, water and shelter to stay healthy and comfortable. Further, since riders usually put a lot of time and effort into getting their horses ready for shows, trail rides, or other events during the warm months, if they maintain their horses over the winter, all that effort won’t go to waste and have to be started over in the spring.

Feeding

Many horse owners believe that when the weather is cold, horses need to be fed rations containing more corn, because they think of corn as a heating feed. However, corn and other cereal grains do not cause the horse to become warmer, they simply provide more energy (calories) to the horse. Hay, which contains more fiber than grain, provides more of a warming effect internally, as more heat is released during the digestion of fiber than of starch from grain. Therefore, horses are more able to maintain body heat if adequate hay is provided in the diet. Further, good quality hay is important during cool weather and winter months when pasture grasses are short or are not growing. Horses need at least 1% of their body weight per day in roughages to maintain a healthy GI tract, but 2% or even more may be appropriate during cold weather, especially when the horse lives outdoors.

Although grain does not provide as much of an internal warming effect as hay, it is often necessary to supplement a horse’s winter ration with additional grain to boost calorie supplies. Cold temperatures increase the amount of calories a horse needs to maintain body weight, as well as support activity or production. Because a horse may digest feed less efficiently as the temperature drops below the horse’s comfort zone, additional feed may be required to maintain body weight and condition. It is important to maintain the horse in a body condition score of 5-6 (moderate to moderately fleshy) because a layer of fat under the skin provides insulation against the cold. Further, horses in moderately fleshy condition require less dietary energy for maintenance in cold weather than thin horses. In general, feeding an additional 1/4 lb of grain per 100 lb body weight to nonworking horses will provide adequate calories during cold, windy and wet weather. Working horses may require up to an additional 1/2 lb per 100 lb body weight, depending on workload, to maintain body weight during cold weather. Feeds such as Purina Ultium, Strategy, Race Ready or Omolene 200 may be especially helpful in these situations, since the added fat provides more calories than grain alone.

Senior horses, which are unable to chew hay completely due to poor teeth and suffer from less efficient digestion and absorption of nutrients in the GI tract, need a feed specifically designed for them such as Equine Senior especially during winter months. Equine Senior contains enough roughage and added fat to ensure that the older horse can meet its fiber and calorie requirements without depending on long-stemmed hay or grass.

Water

Water should always be readily available to the horse. Snow is not a sufficient substitute for water, as the horse cannot physically eat enough snow to meet its water requirement. Ideally, the temperature of the available water should be between 45 degrees and 65 degrees Fahrenheit. If the water is too cold, the horse may drink less, thereby decreasing water and lubrication in the gut and increasing the chance of impaction-induced colic. Further, if the horse drinks less water, it may also eat less feed, resulting in loss of body weight and condition. Finally, if a horse is forced to drink very cold water, its energy requirement will increase, because more calories are required to warm the water to body temperature inside the digestive tract.

Shelter

Another consideration in cold weather horse care is housing or shelter. In general, even in cold climates, horses are happier and possibly healthier outdoors. Closed and heated barns are often inadequately ventilated. Horses living in poorly ventilated stables tend to develop respiratory diseases more often than horses maintained in pastures, even during cold weather.

If given the opportunity, horses adjust to cold temperatures with little difficulty. A horse’s comfort zone is very different from that of a person. In the absence of wind or moisture, horses tolerate temperatures down to near 0 degrees Fahrenheit, and even colder if shelter is available. Horses living outside should have access to adequate shelter from wind, sleet and storms. Trees, brush, or an open-sided shed or stable can provide adequate shelter. In severe cold, horses will group together to share body heat. They may all take a brisk run to increase heat production, and then come back together to share the increased warmth. A long thick coat of hair is an excellent insulator and is the horse’s first line of defense against cold temperatures. Horses that live outdoors during the winter should be allowed to grow a natural, full winter coat. Horses that live indoors will need adequate blankets in the cold weather to ensure that they do not get too cold. With sufficient thought and care by the horse owner, even horses that live outside in very cold climates will survive quite well during the cold winter months.

Exercise

Many horses are given the winter off from work due to the cold weather, the rider’s lack of time, or because they are given a break after a heavy show season. However, if horses are let off for too long, they may forget some of what they have been taught and lose the fitness level that they gained over the year of work. So, to prevent the winter slump, here are a few suggestions:

1. Longe the horse once or twice a week. This not only gets the horse exercising, but it gives you an opportunity to brush, clean feet, check for injury, and evaluate the overall condition of the horse.

2. If longeing is not possible and you have more than one horse, you can ride one and pony the second. This can be a good time saver and gets both horses working.

3. If time is available and weather permits, ride your horse or horses whenever possible. Keep in mind, your horse is not in the same shape and does not have the stamina as when you were riding more in the warmer seasons, so you cannot work as hard nor expect as much from the horse. Be sure to cool the horse down completely after work to reduce the risk of pneumonia, cold, or colic.

4. Another option is to check with local stables to see if their facilities are available to non-boarders. Often, stables allow outside horses and riders to use indoor and/or outdoor arenas for a fee.

Winter may not be the easiest time of year for enjoying our horses, but with proper feed, water and shelter, and some exercise and conditioning, our horses will make it through comfortably and be ready to go again as soon as the weather allows.

By Dr. Katie Young, Equine Nutritionist, Purina Mills, LLC

 

Hay Test can Lead to More Efficient Feeding During Drought

March 18th, 2012

Nutritive value key to overall efficiency for beef cattle intake

COLLEGE STATION – An inexpensive hay test can offer the best guidance as to how much supplemental feed is required for a beef cattle herd, and at the same time, save ranchers money, according to a Texas AgriLife Research scientist.

Considering the historic drought conditions that prevail across Texas, Dr. Tryon Wickersham, an AgriLife Research animal nutritionist, said forage testing is even more important for cattle producers watching the bottom line.

A hay test can cost $50 or less, and many ranchers may be feeding more hay or supplement than they have to or the wrong type of supplement. A hay test will reduce the likelihood of both situations. (Texas AgriLife Research photo by Blair Fannin)

“With feeding programs being one of the most costly components of a cattle operation, every penny must be spent precisely, especially during these historic drought conditions,” Wickersham said.

A hay test can cost $50 or less, and Wickersham said many ranchers may be feeding more hay or supplement than they have to or the wrong type of supplement.
A hay test will reduce the likelihood of both situations, he said, noting that his recent research evaluated both variability in crude protein content and digestibility with Bermudagrass hays.
“The outcomes were a (bit) more variable than native grasses,” he said. “The outcomes depend on how much it has been fertilized and how mature the Bermudagrass is.”
The study found that increased Bermudagrass utilization (intake and digestion) with increasing nutritive value supports the recommendation of feeding high-quality hay.
“However, there must be a balance between optimizing quality, quantity and cost when producing hay,” Wickersham said. “These observations from the studies clearly demonstrate the value of purchasing and marketing hay based on nutritive value.”
Wickersham said a hay test can provide information on both crude protein content and forage digestibility, if requested.
He advised ranchers to test their hay to get a more accurate gauge as to how much supplement and what type of supplement to purchase and feed.
“Producers with higher quality hay may want to look at lower priced energy supplements and reducing hay availability as a means of conserving forage, reducing cost and maintaining body condition score,” Wickersham said. “With the current hay prices, you don’t want to give them unlimited access to hay. You don’t want to put 10 bales out and come back 10 days later.”
In contrast, Wickersham indicated that producers with lower-quality hay will need to pay attention to providing a supplement with adequate levels of both energy and protein. In either case, a producer can make a much better decision with information on hay nutritive value.
Additionally, bulk feeds can be an efficient method of feeding cow herds, but you have to have infrastructure in place to do this or evaluate the cost of adding this capacity, Wickersham said.
“Drought demands that producers find the cheapest source of energy they can realistically handle and safely feed,” he said. “Unfortunately, cheap is more than it used to be.”

Source: Blair Fannin, Media Relations Specialist with Texas A&M AgriLife Communications
October 20, 2011

Preparing Your Goats for the Winter Months Ahead

March 18th, 2012

Autumn is a good time to make sure everything in is in tiptop shape for the cold weather
that’s just around the corner. The preparations you make now can have a long-term impact on
the health and comfort of your goats, so here are a few fall tips:

• Even hardy animals like goats need a warm, dry place to get in out of the cold. Now is a
good time to make sure your shelter can protect your goats from cold winds, rain and snow
as the temperatures drop.

• Remember to replace wet, soiled bedding regularly. Goats need dry bedding in order to stay
warm.

• If you’re constructing a shelter, keep in mind that goats often prefer to sleep up on a
platform instead of at ground level.

• Fresh air is good for goats. At this time of year, you can probably allow your goats to come
and go as they please. But this winter, on days when the weather is especially frigid or wet,
you may want to keep your goats inside. If you do so, make sure your building has adequate
ventilation.

• Goats need access to fresh, clean water at all times. Autumn is the time to think about how
you will provide fresh water during freezing weather. A heater in the water tank will help
ensure water availability day and night.

• In cartoon shows, goats can exist on a diet of tin cans. But in the real world, nothing could
be further from the truth. Goats are actually very particular about what they eat. Goats are
primarily browsers, selectively eating a wide variety of shrubs, woody plants, weeds and
briars. But drought, land use and the time of year can result in inconsistencies in the quality
of forage. As a result, many goats are unable to get enough nutrients from browse alone to
meet their needs. To help your goats reach their full potential, it’s good to supplement with a
high quality feed like Purina® Goat Chow®.

• Even the best nutrition in the world can’t compensate for a parasite infestation (worms).
Parasites can keep your goats from maintaining a healthy weight or even impair your goats’
health. If you haven’t already done so, autumn is a good time for you and your veterinarian
to establish a regular de-worming program (most goat owners de-worm in spring and
autumn). A stool sample can help your veterinarian determine which parasites are causing
problems so that you can treat them more effectively.

• Goats become infected with parasites by grazing on pastures seeded with droppings from
infected goats. The first signs of infection are lethargy and rough hair coat. Animals that lose
weight, have a poor appetite and in many cases diarrhea, may already be in various stages of
anemia.

• Check your goat’s lips and tongue. If they are pale or white instead of a healthy pink, that
can be an indication of anemia caused by a parasite infestation. If a goat appears droopy,
lacks energy, loses its appetite or exhibits any outward sign of distress, consult your
veterinarian at once.

• Newly purchased goats should be treated for parasites and confined from the herd for at
least a week.

• Young kids and adults should be grazed on separate pastures.

• Rotate your de-worming agents to prevent drug resistance. Your veterinarian can advise.

• Another approach to parasite control is prevention. A pasture can become parasite-free if it
has been tilled or given prolonged rest at certain times of year or grazed by animals that are
unsatisfactory hosts for the parasites in question.

Fall is a great time of year to enjoy your goats. And by following the suggestions above,
you can head into the winter months with confidence.

Source: Purina Mills

Body Condition Scores for Deer

March 13th, 2012

Body Condition Scoring allows you to monitor the health and condition of your deer. Optimal Body Condition in bucks will allow for greater antler growth. Does will be more fertile: produce more high-quality milk, resulting in healthier, faster growing fawns. The Purina Mills Body Condition Scoring System allows you to visually score your deer based on fat coverage on several key body areas. Ideal Body Condition Scores lies between 3-4 (can be as high as 4.5 just prior to the rut, especially in bucks).

  1. POOR – Deer is emaciated.  Majority of ribs are prominent during summer and visible but less distinct in winter.  Spine appears sharp with a steep muscle angle and prominent sawtooth appearance form the side.  Hip bone is clearly visible with sharp edges, surrounded by sunken muscles at the rump. Tail head is devoid of fat and framed by deep sunken depressions on each side, resulting in sharp looking pin bones. Belly is tucked high with hollow flanks and a sharp shelf.  Brisket is thin and narrow.
  2. LEAN – Deer is thin.  Many ribs visible but not prominent during summer.  In winter, ribs are slightly prominent. Spine is evident but not sharp, with somewhat steep muscle angle and mild sawtooth side appearance.  Hip bone is clearly seen, with sharp edges and sightly sunken rump muscles.  Tail head displays sunken depressions on each side, with sharp pin bones and a small amount of observable fat.
  3. PRIME – Deer is strong, muscular and healthy.  Ribs should be slightly visible but not sharp during warmer months.  Ribs are nicely covered in flesh and not visible in winter..  Spine is visible, but not prominent, and surrounded by moderately sloping muscles.  No “sawtoothing” of the spine is visible.  Rump clearly visible but not sharp, featuring flat, angular muscles.  Tail head reflects slight hollows at either side, rounded pin bone and a small bit of fat.  Belly has a slight depression with slight shelf and lean appearance with no fat rolls.  Slightly rounded brisket.
  4. HEAVY – Deer is healthy, but carrying a few extra pounds, considered normal and healthy prior to rut.  Ribs are not visible.  Sine is not readily seen, with adjoining muscles rising at a gentle slope.  Hips are full with hip bone barely visible.  Slight depression can be seen beside tail head.  Pin bones appear rounded and smooth.  Flank is full with no shelf.  Slight fat rolls developing. Brisket appears full and rounded.
  5. OBESE – Does may have reproductive problems. Ribs are layered in fat.  Spine lies buried in fat, surrounded by rounding muscles with little to no slope.  Hip bone is hidden by fat.  Rump appears full and overly round.  Tail head is covered with rounding at each side, pin bones are buried in fat. Belly is distended, with full flank and no shelf.  Fat rolls are clearly evident at the midline and brisket.

Source:  Purina Mills

Deer and Feeds for Other Animals

March 13th, 2012

People often want to feed deer what is handy, which might be sheep, goat, dairy, or even horse feeds. The problem is these feeds are not formulated for deer, do not meet their specific needs, and may even cause problems.

Sheep are very intolerant of dietary copper, so sheep feeds and, traditionally, most goat feeds contain very low levels of copper. They are also usually lower in protein than what deer will need. Deer, and elk, too, have fairly high copper requirements. Feed meant for sheep will be deficient in copper and most other trace minerals for deer and elk, and will likely not provide enough protein for optimal antler growth.

Commercial dairy feeds are formulated to maximize milk production, which has very different nutrient requirements than antler growth. These feeds do not have the proper starch-to-fiber ratio or the trace mineral fortification required for superior antler growth.

Horse feeds, especially textured feeds such as grain mixes, will be too high in soluble (starchy) carbohydrates for deer, inviting problems with acidosis and founder. The protein level also will not be high enough to provide for maximal antler growth. Again, the feed is designed for an animal with a different digestive tract and different production goals than deer.

If you want big, healthy deer that can achieve their genetic potential for antler growth, you need to feed a high-quality feed designed specifically for deer. Anything less will give you just that: less.

Source:  Purina Mills

Deer and Protein

March 13th, 2012

There is considerable controversy regarding the percentage of dietary protein that deer should have. Many people believe that deer cannot tolerate more than 16% dietary protein and that high-protein diets are wasteful or even toxic. This simply is not true.

Research in South Texas has shown that wild deer diets at certain times of the year can be over 25% protein. Many forages highly utilized by deer are over 30% protein. Obviously, the wild deer are unharmed by consuming these high-protein plants. Indeed, excellent antler growth years were those with superb spring forage conditions. The resulting antler growth suggests that not only were the deer not harmed by their high-protein diet, they actually utilized the protein to grow bigger antlers, indicating that higher protein is necessary for a buck to achieve his genetic potential for antler growth.

Pelleted diets designed to supplement natural forage need to be greater than 16% protein because the forage portion of the diet is often inadequate in protein content. Even in a good year, the digestible protein content of major deer browse species often falls well below 10% by late summer and will likely remain there until the spring green-up. In a tough year (late winter, drought, etc.), the nutrition supplied by natural forages can be inadequate even in the spring. Without supplemental protein, deer cannot maintain optimal body condition, which is essential for maximal antler growth.

Deer in confinement being fed complete diets should have at least 16% dietary protein in order to try to maximize health, growth and antler development. Today’s champion bucks are commonly being raised on diets containing 20% protein. Some people even feed diets containing as much as 24% protein with no adverse effects.

Protein is needed for maintenance and growth of all organs in the body as well as for many physiological functions, and the individual needs for protein are affected by many factors such as genetics, environment, disease and parasite challenges, etc. The body has a “priority of life” list, and protein goes first to those functions that are deemed most important to survival. Antler growth, while desirable and important for social hierarchy, is not necessary for life and appears at the bottom of the priority list from the deer’s viewpoint. Therefore, unless there is enough protein in the diet to meet all the priority needs and have enough left over for optimal antler growth, trophy racks will not happen, no matter what the genetic potential of the buck. If you want to see giant antlers, you will need to provide the necessary protein.

Source: Purina Mills

Fall is Prime Time to Begin a Supplemental Feeding Program for Deer

March 13th, 2012

A buck can have the best genetics in the world, but without the proper nutrition, he’ll never achieve his potential. One way to stack the deck in his favor is to supplement his nutrition. Fall is an excellent time to begin this.
But before we talk about how to initiate a supplemental feeding program, let’s evaluate the big picture.
The goal: Produce larger bucks with massive antlers. Some big obstacles to that goal:

  • Lack of high quality forage in fall and winter.
  • Stresses due to inclement weather.
  • In fall, deer are heading into a natural period of low metabolism and poor appetite. During the rut, a buck may spend only 20 to 30 minutes per day eating.
  • Burned calories during the rut will greatly deplete any existing stockpiles of nutrients.
  • Antler growth is low on the priority list of functions required to sustain life, so next spring, antlers will receive “what’s left” of nutrients after life-sustaining needs have been met. Deer will not begin growing antlers until they’ve regained body condition.
  • Nutritional deficiencies early in life can stunt a buck’s growth and antler size for the rest of his life, even if he is well fed as an adult.

The opportunity: Fall is one of the best times to initiate a supplemental feeding program because…

  • Fall forage is less available and of poorer quality, so deer are already instinctively searching for new food sources and may be more accepting of an unfamiliar feed form.
  • Getting deer to fully accept a feed form such as pellets can take weeks or months. By beginning the transition in the fall, deer can be fully acclimated by the time severe weather arrives.
  • Antlers are high in protein content (which is why feeding corn won’t produce bigger antlers). Now is the prime time for the body to start stockpiling protein before spring antler-growing season.
  • When a deer goes into winter in optimal body condition, it is less likely to deplete all of its nutrition stores by spring.

The plan: Now that we’ve established the need for a supplemental nutrition program, how do we do it? Here are a few basic steps:

  • Provide the essentials. Deer need three basic things to survive and thrive—food, water and cover. If any one of these three critical factors is insufficient, deer will go elsewhere.
  • Place your feeders along frequently used runways or trails.
  • Be sure to place enough feeders so that deer do not have to travel more than one-half to three-quarters of a mile to a feeder. A good rule of thumb is one feeder per 300-400 acres.
  • Make sure your feeding area has good visibility, access to fresh, clean water and an easy escape route to nearby cover.
  • Place your feeders near the center of your land to keep deer on your property. Do not place feeders along fence lines, roads, power lines or in a large opening.
  • Choose the right diet. With 16 percent protein, AntlerMax® Rut & Conditioning Deer
  • Chow® 16 product is the ideal fall and winter body conditioning diet to set the stage for big antler growth next spring. It has a highly palatable, strong flavor to attract deer and AntlerMax® Deer & Elk Mineral supplement for strong, dense antler growth.
  • One free-choice feeder can comfortably feed 25 free-ranging deer, each consuming 1 to 2 pounds of AntlerMax® Rut & Conditioning Deer Chow® 16 product per day.
  • Deer do not recognize protein pellets as food, but they are accustomed to seeing corn as a food source in the wild. Entice them to the protein pellets by initially mixing corn with the pellets (start with 75 percent corn, 25 percent pellets).
  • Deer do not like abrupt changes in feed, so make them gradually. Once deer are accustomed to eating protein pellets from a feeder, gradually phase out the corn. (NOTE: Although corn provides digestible energy, corn inherently lacks the nutrients needed for strong antler growth. Corn may help deer survive, but it won’t help them thrive. In fact, gorging on too much corn too fast can actually cause a deer to founder and die.)
  • Remember, pellets should be a supplement to, not a replacement for forage.
  • Make sure deer have access to a constant supply of fresh, clean water near your feeder. A deer requires about 3 pounds of water for every pound of dry matter consumed.
  • Plan on feeding year ‘round so that bucks never slip into below-average body condition.
  • Otherwise, next spring, nutrients will be allocated to “playing catch up” instead of to antler growth.
  • Be sure to wear gloves when handling the feeder and feed. Human scent can repel deer.
  • Don’t shoot yourself in the foot. Once you’ve spent all this effort to attract deer to a feeding area, NEVER hunt near the feeding area.

Don’t get discouraged. It won’t happen overnight. In fact, the better the forage conditions, the tougher it is to get deer to start eating pellets. But fall is a prime opportunity.
There are many, many more tips and strategies for establishing a successful supplemental nutrition program than we can include here. Talk to your Purina dealer or visit

www.wildlife.purinamills.com for more information tailored to your geographic region and specific situation.

Quick Tips: Hay Management

March 10th, 2012

Now is the time to make plans for getting the most from your hay as fall winds down and winter approaches. These tips can help:

1. Inventory the quantity of your hay on hand.

2. Work with your nutrition consultant to determine the quality of the hay you have.

3. Forage analysis can be useful. Testing hays for protein and energy content will help you design winter supplementation programs for your
specific situation.

4. Work with your nutritionist to develop a plan for your winter supplementation program, based on quality and quantity of hay and potential
changes in cow-herd size. Supplements can help stretch hay supplies.

5. Once you have a plan, look for opportunities to acquire necessary supplements. Grain markets could continue to be very volatile. Watch
these markets closely and work with suppliers to acquire what is needed at an optimum time.

6. Feed hay in small amounts or in a feeder to minimize waste.

7. If you plan to feed more than a day’s worth of feed, feeding in a rack or a hay ring can help reduce waste.

8. Feed hay in well-drained areas.

9. Rotate hay feeding locations to minimize damage to any one area of the pasture.

10. Feed hay stored outside before you feed hay that is stored inside. Outside-stored hay usually has more spoilage during storage and lower
palatability than hay that has been stored inside.

Is Your Hay Supply Adequate Until Spring?

March 10th, 2012

Do you have enough hay stored to meet the needs of your cattle for the remainder of the winter? Even though you may have stored what you think will be enough hay to carry your herd through the winter, conditions often change so you might be concerned that you will run short before spring.

If you are worried about having enough hay on hand, Warren Gill, University of Tennessee Extension beef specialist, offers this formula to use to help estimate your available feed.

  • Count the number of hay bales you have and, if possible, weigh a few to get an idea of their average weight. Multiply the number of bales by the average weight.
  •  During storage and feeding, you may lose 25 percent or more of large-package bales stored outside. Subtract this amount from the available feed.
  • Calculate the number of animal units. Count a mature cow or bull as one unit, yearling cattle at a half unit and calves as a quarter unit.
  • Determine the number of remaining total days you estimate you will need to use winter feed in your area.
  •  Figure each animal will eat 25 – 30 pounds of hay each day of average-to-good-quality hay with average wastage. Then, multiply your animal units times the number of days times the forage per day. Divide by the average weight of your bales to see how many bales you will need.

If you think your hay supplies will be inadequate and you need to obtain more, you can contact your university extension service or other sources for finding more hay or figuring suitable strategies for stretching your hay supply. State Agricultural Departments in major cattle producing areas also provide listings of where additional hay might be available for purchase.

Here are some reminders for storing the hay when you get it:

  • Soil contact with hay is the most important source of spoilage of hay stored outside. Place bales on crushed rock, a concrete pad or wood pallets, if possible. If you can’t avoid storing hay bales on the ground, pick a well-drained area preferably with sandy soil.
  • Storing bales near the top of a sloping area reduces the amount of water flowing around them. Bale rows should run up and down a sloping area to avoid trapping surface water.
  • Store hay in a sunny location with a southern exposure. Never store under trees or other shady areas where drying can be slow.
  • Bale rows should run north to south rather than east to west.